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Acros 100
#1
I'm trying out this acros 100 film, 35mm !! Does anyone use it and what EI

rating would you recommend!!

Also, what developer and times would you recommend!!!

Btw if any one has a picture using this film in jpeg form can they show it to me!!!!

Niall
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#2
Rodinal 1:25 21Din100ASA 7,5 min

Neofin Blau 21Din100ASA 6 min

Emofin 20Din80ASA 3+3min



alles bei 20 grad Celsius
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#3
Hello Niall,



you also can use Calbe FO9 (R09 )1: 40, in rotation with Jobo (Position p) 24 Grad celsius; time 5.30 min/sec.

Before develop wash 2 minutes in water, also 24 grade celsius.



If you want to work with a real receptan film, use Maco PO 100 C ! The time for this film, the same process like Acros 100 but 7,15 min/sec. You will get a negativ about 0.65 grad.



Greetings
Sieh´es mal so:

Du wirst geboren und die Welt erscheint.

Du stirbst und die Welt verschwindet.

Das ist alles.



http://www.zensusa.de
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#4
Hello Niall



this are times for "Rollfilme", not for KB films.
Sieh´es mal so:

Du wirst geboren und die Welt erscheint.

Du stirbst und die Welt verschwindet.

Das ist alles.



http://www.zensusa.de
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#5
...Can you explain 'in rotation', and why do I wash the film for 2 min before the developer!!

Niall
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#6
In "rotation" means with a processor like Jobo CPE 2 for example. For to use the devlopingtime for non-rotation-devlopment you must wash the film befor. I wash my films 5 Minutes. For the acros 100 I?ll take 10.30 minutes at 21? in A 49 for ISO 100.



I hope you?ll understand my bad english.



Sven.
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#7
Yes,I understand your english but, I have heard this before even

with 35mm film that one should wash before developing but why

should one do it!

Niall
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#8
Niall.



with 35mm film it does not always make sense but with sheet films the pre-soaking has two effects:



1) The antihalo layer will be removed (nothing really special as the developer could to this to)

2) the supercoating will be washed off



Now number two is what we are looking for. The supercoating is a thin layer of highly diluted gelatine which is applied to the film after emulsioning for the purpose of protection. It can?t always be applied 100% evenly because it is very liquid. This layer we want to completely remove in the developing process so the developer can acces the film?s surface with the same speed everywhere. If this is not removed completely after development some larger format sheet films can show slight streaks.



In the enlarging process this would still be almost invisible but if you do contact printing (and that?s what most of these big sheet film users do) this can show on the image.



As for 35 mm I cannot see why one should presoak unless there is some special ingredient in the anti halo which might work against the developer or so.



Sometimes people come up with the theory that a presoaked film develops more eqaulized than a non presoaked film due to a slower penetration of the developer into the emulsion (it jas to work its way in by "pushing" out the water already beeing there) but I have never experienced this.



Cheers,





Mirko



PS you can buy all our fancy stuff now of our new parter [url="http://www.retrophotographic.com"]Retrophotographic[/url] if you don?t mind buying of a british company :-)
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#9
Thanx I trust this is response to the Email I sent you!!

I think I'd like to buy from you direct as it may be cheaper,other wise I would have to convert Euros into english pound and that with shipping

cost will be more expensive,that's why I'm looking for your catalog,

hope you don't mind and can assist me if I buy from you!!!

Niall
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